I wanted to share some images and add some info on 1977's STR8 cut gears. I know we have five here on the west coast and I look forward to hearing them at MOPED GP.
1st off the large gear obviously needs to be pressed onto your OEM final drive shaft. This should not be done in a vise nor should you press the smaller gear to the clutch bell with a vise either. Use a a real press or go to a shop that has one. I went to a local shop that rebuilds engines and got three bells and gear sets pressed for $65. About $20 for each set up.
The main gear has a provision for a 5mm key. I believe that the gear can be welded alone after pressing but I had a limited number of OEM shafts keyed using EDM. Sure, you could cut the keyway in a shaft with a traditional end mill but you'd go through 8 tools before you made a dent. Out of all the shafts I did hardness testing on, the average was 62 Rockwell. Too gnarly to cut with carbides and too expensive to make new from scratch.
Iv'e only welded bells at three points but everyone does it differently, your choice. The oxide coating should be removed by sanding. I use 3M STIKIT 120 grit stuck to a flat surface. I'm sold on lightened clutch bells, Tomar's and KTM stuff but let's be realistic. This is made for a PUCH moped so I'm using stock bells for now. But the clutch gear fits the same as stock so you can weld it to whatever you want.
I can't urge enough how important it is to make sure that the main gear is running true. if it wobbles, you did it wrong and it won't spin freely at all. Being straight, there's not a lot of room for play. Also, there is a break in period on all gears. It's a snug fit and will take a number of revolutions to mesh itself properly. The oxide is going to wear between the teeth even if lubrication is being drawn up the gears from the case.
So far, so good. I'm happy with the way they turned out and can't thank 1977, Long Beach Mopeds and Tyler enough. This was his idea and i had to open my mouth and say, " Hell, we can make that!"