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V1 Race Stuffy Crank Needle Bearing (no replies)

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Has anyone installed a V1 race stuffy crank and was able to find the correct needle bearing for the clutch basket?

Reading treats' description they mention the dimensions on the clutch side of the crank is 12x17x15 which is definitely not the case. My crank measures 14mm OD.

TK

qt50 Carb change/oil injection hack (1 reply)

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I have a '84 QT50 which I bought for $50 off the side of the road, it had no brakes, missing a brake handle, front brake cable was seized, no lights, all wires were cut from the bottom of the computer/speedometer box, and the oil injection was hacked... needless to say the previous owner butchered the thing up good, but I have fixed all the problems to a point that I am happy with.

Here's the thing, it has no get up and go... I know people its a qt50... but it has all the top end I need, goes around 30, just takes a while to get up to speed and that's not so sweet when I'm pulling out onto a roadway.

I assume it is a carb problem (needing a major cleaning) but what I'm really wondering is since the oil injection is already hacked, can I just get a new carburetor without the oil injection crap?

anyone done this?
anyone have any idea what carb would work?

can i use a 19mm intake on a dellorto PHBG 21mm AD carburetor? (12 replies)

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Hey guys, I recently bought a dellorto PHBG 21mm AD carburetor from a guy in my area. I plan to put it on a stock e50 (78 puch maxi luxe). I went on treats and they have a 19mm intake. i asked them about a 21mm intake and they wont have it for 3-4 months...As I understand this mate up with my carb, as all PHGBs have the same OD. But will this have any averse effect on performance if the ID is 2mm smaller? Thanks in advance for your replies.

I plan to pair this carb with the proma circuit and leave the engine at 50cc(for now)

LINK TO CARB:
dellotro PHBG 21mm AD
LINK TO INTAKE:
19mm intake

stocko shocko express (5 replies)

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looking at putting this on my express i know you got to cut fins and stuff but what can i see for gains. yes i know expresses arnt worth it but i live in an area where if your not keeping up with traffic your dead also cops harass you more even tho most of the speed limits are 30 go figure

MLM intake for moby (no replies)

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Anybody running this intakenon their av7?

Curious how it helps with phbg to frame clearance at full vario

Qt50 problem (1 reply)

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Hi I'm still new site on here but anyways I got a qt50 put in a new 60cc big bore kit I recently got it started runs good but when I reach 29.5 mph wot it stops running but when I try to kick start it fills kind of hard to kick don't know what to do should I put in the stock 50cc kit or should I tr y something else I'm still waiting on my jets to get in and also the throttle is new cause the old one was stock looks like they forced the side in I tried a performance exhaust but fills like it don't got any power can I still use the stock exhaust with the 60cc big bore kit I just don't know

Vespa Exhausts - Let 'er rip! (15 replies)

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Based on a side conversation in another thread, there are a lot of opinions about good and bad exhausts. I've read about 2-stroke science in the wiki and elsewhere.

This thread is about practical experience. What do you have or have you had? Anything that's just bad? Are there pipes that are better for kits vs stock? Straight or circuit? Is bigger better? Will Batman and Robin be crushed by Jokers giant jack-in-the box?

Naturally, I am interested in Vespa-specific applications, but I welcome any useful information.

Single variated vespa idea? (38 replies)

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This drifts from my build thread so I made this new one. Anyway, I was thinking of ways to get better top end on my ciao and sadly I have the single speed trans. Meaning if I want some variated fun I'd need to buy a new trans.. But there's no problem actually putting a variator on the crankshaft.

So first I thought, maybe dremel out the engine mounting holes and throw a spring behind the engine (the way moby's and pug's work).
But then I got this idea to just put a skateboard wheel tensioner between the front variator and rear pulley, like this:


This way I can gear the pulley for low end and the variator will help with top end. The spring loaded tensioner will take up the slack in low gear and can move out of the way for high gear. Would this work or am I just having stupid dreams of going fast?

Idle screw (6 replies)

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My idle screw is two turns away from being all the way turned in. Does this represent any jetting issues? Should my needle be adjusted?

Can the idle screw be considered separate from proper tuning? Or can it represent improper jetting?
(in too far, out too far etc. )

Break in a Kitted Puch with Kickstart Springs? (3 replies)

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Just finishing up rebuilding my Puch E50 and installing a 70cc Treats Reed Especiale kit. I was planning on installing kickstart clutch springs at the same time. I will be doing a low speed engine break-in, and it got me thinking that maybe I should wait until after break-in to switch to the stiffer springs because of how high the rpms will have to get for the clutch to engage with kickstarts. Any thoughts?

EBR hydro preload, springs, fluids, etc. (4 replies)

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can't find much about it other than vague references to a stiffer spring and pvc preload spacers. There seem to be pretty common place swaps in a lot of mini super moto racing, premade preload spacers that work with specific springs etc. Looking to see if anyone has had any actual first person experience playing with the dampening of their EBRs

currently have mine with whatever garbage oil they come with and some ALU spacers I happened to have.

PERFOMANCE EXHAUST (9 replies)

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I am in the market to buy a pipe for my stock 1999 kinetic tfr.....
but I am looking for the best bang for my buck.....

Shorten forks? (7 replies)

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Is there a how to some where?

I'd like to shorten my forks on my maxi.

Clip ons (11 replies)

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Puch EBR forks. So what size clip ons would i need?

1976 Garelli Eureka Performance Increase (11 replies)

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I have a 1976 Garelli Eureka Flex Deluxe that I believe had an engine swap from the ~1.5hp / 25mph engine to the ~2hp / 30mph engine. It has the curved intake manifold instead of the 90 degree angle intake manifold, which is why I think someone did an engine swap on it. How would I tell if it's the 1.5hp or the 2hp NOI engine, other than the intake manifold?

Anyways, I'm looking for easy to do (i.e. not tearing down the entire engine) and relatively cheap ways to upgrade the performance (primarily looking for better acceleration or higher top speed (I know both aren't possibly with a 1-speed clutch), I'm open to suggestions for both) of my moped. Ideally, I don't want to drop hundreds of dollars on the moped quite yet, since I'm still in college. I'm looking for something more along the lines of a larger jet and/or a pantyhose air filter (does this replace the air intake box or the entire air filter itself?).

Thanks guys!

TL;DR: Make Garelli Eureka Flex moped have better performance for cheap

Gearing for a kitted 505 Sachs (airsol) (2 replies)

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Have a bunch of 505 Sachs, but kitted my first one. An Eagle III. Wondering what gearing ya'll typically run with the airsol kit. Currently I'm at 11x32. It seems nice- decent pickup and topping in maybe the mid 40's. But don't wanna blow up this kit. 15 bing and the alsil pipe. Everything else stock. Just wanted to pick some brains yeargh

- yr friendly mcr capt

WOT issues Garelli NOI 2 speed. (7 replies)

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First the list of how it is setup so you can better assist me.
1. 21mm Carb Dellorto PHBG
a. idle jet. Unknown came with clone carb not labeled. Looks smaller than a 48 but bigger then a 37. Order new jets because it is a little rich at idle.
b. Needle W7 clip on 2nd from the bottom knotch.
c. Main Jet 96
2. Kit Malossi G2 benelli.
3. Standard Rubber clutches
4. Gears 10 31 ( order an 11 and I have a 28)
5. Standard throttle does not open 21mm up all the way order a aftermarket to fix this
6. Garelli NOI 2 speed.
Issue
After accelerating to WOT (reaching down and pulling throttle cable the rest of the way out) the engine will lose power and die. This is after I break 40mph.
After accelerating to WOT (reaching down and pulling throttle cable the rest of the way out) engine will lose power and slow down. Then reapplying the throttle the engine will four stroke and feel like there is no power. This is after I break 40mph.
On either of these symptoms I can pedal start with choke on and it starts right up on first try.
Next, one of two things happen. Either the engine will respond like normal or it will not increase above 30 and it takes forever to get to 30.
Engine temperature at WOT is roughly 280 - 300 F.
Do not know the RPMS I am at when achieving 40-43 mph.

How do I fix this? What do you think is wrong? Do I need a larger main jet? I have checked for air leaks and torqued head to spec. Please help I am so close with my first moped project to be done and I want to start on my UPS Magnum next.

Batavus m48 whiteboard. (5 replies)

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i was thinking at the spare m48 cylinders that are ripped doorstops it seems like a waste of good cast iron. i have a kawa 2 stroke piston from a triple.
i was pondering sleeving it. if i do i have to scrap the loser clutch ideas? tomar/ varitop?

cdi + coil combo - can it work with points stator? (1 reply)

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so i accidentally bought the cdi 12v coil COMBO, but i am currently using a points stator. i am wondering if this will work together with proper timing, before i go and try and assemble it, or if i should return the cdi coil and get just a 12v coil. or if maybe i should just upgrade to a cdi stator? thoughts? comments? suggestions? thanks!

1977 STR8 CUT GEAR FITMENT PUCH E50 (19 replies)

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I wanted to share some images and add some info on 1977's STR8 cut gears. I know we have five here on the west coast and I look forward to hearing them at MOPED GP.

1st off the large gear obviously needs to be pressed onto your OEM final drive shaft. This should not be done in a vise nor should you press the smaller gear to the clutch bell with a vise either. Use a a real press or go to a shop that has one. I went to a local shop that rebuilds engines and got three bells and gear sets pressed for $65. About $20 for each set up.
The main gear has a provision for a 5mm key. I believe that the gear can be welded alone after pressing but I had a limited number of OEM shafts keyed using EDM. Sure, you could cut the keyway in a shaft with a traditional end mill but you'd go through 8 tools before you made a dent. Out of all the shafts I did hardness testing on, the average was 62 Rockwell. Too gnarly to cut with carbides and too expensive to make new from scratch.


Iv'e only welded bells at three points but everyone does it differently, your choice. The oxide coating should be removed by sanding. I use 3M STIKIT 120 grit stuck to a flat surface. I'm sold on lightened clutch bells, Tomar's and KTM stuff but let's be realistic. This is made for a PUCH moped so I'm using stock bells for now. But the clutch gear fits the same as stock so you can weld it to whatever you want.








I can't urge enough how important it is to make sure that the main gear is running true. if it wobbles, you did it wrong and it won't spin freely at all. Being straight, there's not a lot of room for play. Also, there is a break in period on all gears. It's a snug fit and will take a number of revolutions to mesh itself properly. The oxide is going to wear between the teeth even if lubrication is being drawn up the gears from the case.









So far, so good. I'm happy with the way they turned out and can't thank 1977, Long Beach Mopeds and Tyler enough. This was his idea and i had to open my mouth and say, " Hell, we can make that!"
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